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  1. IMG_0683You will need-

    4mm knitting needles

    DK yarn in the main colour for the body and ears (about14g)

    DK yarn in a contrast colour for the under body, saddle and head piece (about 8g)

    Large blunt needle to sew up – or felt

    Buttons for eyes

    Needle and thread to sew eyes on

    Toy stuffing (about 7g)

     

     

     

    The body is knitted in all plain knitting – increasing and decreasing to get the elephant shape

     

    • to increase in a stitch – knit into the front loop as normal – then take the needle to the back and knit into the back loop of the same stitch.

     

     

    Method: - Body – make 2 the same.

     

    Starting at the trunk - cast on 18 stitches in main colour.

    Row 1: knit across all stitches.  (18 stitches).

    Row 2: knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.  (19 stitches).

    Row 3: increase in first stitch, knit to end of row. (20 stitches).

    Row 4: knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch. (21 stitches).

    Row 5: knit across all stitches.  (21 stitches).

    Row 6: knit across all stitches.  (21 stitches).

    Row 7: knit across all stitches.  (21 stitches).

    Row 8: cast off 9 stitches very tightly so that the trunk will curl when stuffed, knit to end of row normally.  (12 stitches).

    Row 9: knit across all stitches.  (12 stitches).

    Row 10: knit across all stitches.  (12 stitches).

    Row 11: knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. (11 stitches).

    Row 12: knit across all stitches. (11 stitches).

    Row 13: knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.  (12 stitches).

    Row 14: increase in first stitch, knit to last stitch. (13 stitches).

    Row 15: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row. (12 stitches).

    Row 16: knit across all stitches. (12 stitches).

    Row 17: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row.  (11 stitches).

    Row 18: knit across all stitches.  (11 stitches).

    Row 19: knit across all stitches.  (11 stitches).

    Row 20 cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of row.  Knit these stitches, then knit to end of row.  (19 stitches).

    Row 21 – row 27: knit across all rows.  (19 stitches).

    Row 28: cast off 6 stitches, knit to end of row.  (13 stitches).

    Row 29 - row 43: knit across all rows.  (13 stitches).

    Row 44: cast on 6 stitches at the beginning of row.  Knit these stitches, then knit to end of row.  (19 stitches).

    Row 45: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row.  (18 stitches).

    Row 46: knit across all stitches.  (18 stitches).

    Row 47: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row.  (17 stitches).

    Row 48: knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.  (16 stitches).

    Row 49: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row.  (15 stitches).

    Row 50: knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.  (14 stitches).

    Row 51: knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row.  (13 stitches).

    Cast off.

     

     

    Underbody – make 1

    Cast on 24 stitches

    Row 1 – row 6: knit across all rows.  (24 stitches).

    Row 7: Cast off 6 stitches, knit to end of row. (18 stitches).

    Row 8: Cast off 6 stitches, knit to end of row.  (12 stitches).

    Row 9 – row 21: knit across all rows.  (12 stitches).

    Row 22: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end of row. (18 stitches).

    Row 23: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end of row.  (24 stitches).

    Row 24 – row 28: knit across all rows.  (24 stitches).

    Cast off.

     

     

    Ears – make 2

    Cast on 10 stitches

    Row 1: knit across all stitches.

    Row 2: Knit 9 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 9 stitches.

    Row 3: Knit 8 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 8 stitches.

    Row 4: Knit 7 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 7 stitches.

    Row 5: Knit 6 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 6 stitches.

    Row 6: Knit 5 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 5 stitches.

    Row 7: Knit 4 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 4 stitches.

    Row 8: Knit 3 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 3 stitches.

    Row 9: Knit 2 stitches, turn the work around, knit back along these 2 stitches.

    Row 10: Knit 1 stitch, turn the work around, knit back along this stitch.

    Cast off.

     

     

     

     

     

    Tail - make 1

     

    Cut 6 lengths of yarn about 6” long – thread them through the body where you want the tail so that the yarns are equal lengths.  Make a plait using each doubled strand .  Tie a knot to secure the plait when you are happy with the length and fluff out the ends of the yarn.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Howdah – make 1

    Cast on 15 Stitches in the contrast colour

    Row 1: knit across all stitches.

    Row 2: increase in first stitch, knit to end, increase in last stitch.  (17 stitches).

    Row 3: increase in first stitch, knit to end, increase in last stitch.  (19 stitches).

    Row 4: increase in first stitch, knit to end, increase in last stitch.  (21 stitches).

    Row 5: increase in first stitch, knit to end, increase in last stitch.  (23 stitches).

    Row 6: knit across all stitches.  (23 stitches).

    Row 7: knit across all stitches.  (23 stitches).

    Row 8: knit across all stitches.  (23 stitches).

    Row 9: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last stitch, knit 2 stitches together.  (21stitches).

    Row 10: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last stitch, knit 2 stitches together.  (19 stitches).

    Row 11: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last stitch, knit 2 stitches together.  (17 stitches).

    Row 12: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last stitch, knit 2 stitches together.  (15 stitches).

    Cast off.

     

    Head piece – make 1

    Cast on 8 stitches in the contrast colour

    Row 1: knit across all stitches.

    Row 2: knit across all stitches.

    Row 3: knit across all stitches.

    Row 4: knit 2 stitches together, knit 4 stitches, Knit 2 stitches together.  (6 stitches).

    Row 5: knit across all stitches.

    Row 6: knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches, Knit 2 stitches together.  (4 stitches).

    Row 7: knit across all stitches.

    Row 8: knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches together. (2 stitches).

    Row 9: knit 2 stitches together, draw yarn through stitch.

     

    To make up

    There is no back and front to the knitted pieces – just make sure that the head shapes are at the same end of the under body.

    Fold the under body in half, and run a row of stitches along the fold to create a seam.

    Sew half of the under body to one of the body pieces, matching the legs and tummy.

    Sew the other half of the under body to the other body piece matching the legs and tummy.

    Sew up the back to the centre of the back

    Sew around the trunk, up the head – leave about a 2” gap on the back.

    Turn the toy inside out to hide your stitching.

    Lightly stuff the elephant – do not put any stuffing in the trunk.

    Sew up the gap.

    The toy is designed to be very soft and squishy.  The seam along the under body helps to keep the legs in place – but just pull the shapes around until you are happy with the look of your elephant.

     

     

    Sew the ears - you will see that one edge has a tiny row of holes – this is the edge you stitch.  Lay the ear onto the head at an angle and just over sew to the head between the holes and the edge.  The row of holes enables the ear to ‘flap’ about – you can pull it forwards to droop over the elephants face.

     

     

    Sew the eyes on to the head with a fine needle and thread.

     

    Sit the headpiece and howdah onto the body and add a few stitches round the edge to keep them in place.

     

     

    Take a step further

    • Knit each piece in a different colour.
    • Go mad with stripes
    • Dress up the head piece and howdah as much as you like.
    • knit with 2 strands of double knitting together (which is chunky weight yarn) on 6mm needles for a bigger elephant.

     

  2. Picture1You will need:

    Either dk yarns and 4mm knitting needles -Approximate size – 17cm x 13cm (plus handles)

    Or chunky yarns and 6mm knitting needles / super chunky and 9mm knitting needles.

    Large blunt needle to sew up wool

    Fabric for lining

    Large press stud for fastening

    Needle and thread to sew lining

     

    Check out our YouTube channel for video walkthroughs of the patterns

     

    This pattern is worked in coloured stripes, with a different colour to finish off the top ribbing and handles.   The pattern is an 8 row repeat – and all the pattern rows are listed to make it easier for you to follow the colour changes and cable pattern.

    There are 2 techniques you will need for this pattern

    Cable pattern - We are going to cross over some of the stitches to make the twisted cable pattern.   When the pattern says – ‘cable 4 back’ – work the next 4 stitches as follows

    -       take next 2 stitches off the left hand needle onto your cable needle – tuck the cable needle with the stitches on it BEHIND the work – knit next 2 stitches on the left hand needle – put the 2 stitches from the cable needle back onto the left hand needle – knit these 2 stitches,

    Joining the colour blocks – when you start work on a new colour block twist the 2 yarn strands around each other.  This will keep the yarn tight and the stitches flat – preventing a gap that you would otherwise get.

     

    Method:-

    For the first side cast on: 12 stitches in colour A, 12 stitches in colour B, 12 stitches in colour C, (36 stitches)

    Knit 2 rows – make sure you have the yarn to the back of the work at each colour change – and twist the yarns round each other.

    Work the main pattern as follows: – repeat these stitches across each colour block

    Row 1: knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, purl 3, knit 1.

    Row 2: purl 1, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 1.

    Row 3: as row 1.

    Row 4: as row 2.

    Row 5: as row 1.

    Row 6: as row 2.

    Row 7: knit 1, purl 3, cable 4 back, purl 3, knit 1.

    Row 8: as row 2.

    Work 3 complete sets of the pattern – then work

    Row 1: knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, purl 3, knit 1.

    Row 2: purl 1, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 1.

    Row 3: as row 1.

    Row 4: s row 2.

    Break off all the yarn ends – leaving about 4” tails – and change colour

    Row 1: *knit 1, knit 2 together – repeat from * to end of row (24 stitches)

    Row 2:  *knit 1, purl 1 - repeat from * to end of row

    Row 3:  *knit 1, purl 1 - repeat from * to end of row

    Row 4: *knit 1, purl 1 - repeat from * to end of row

    Row 5: knit all stitches.

    Row 6: purl all stitches.

    Row 7: knit all stitches.

    Cast off.

     

    For the second side cast on: 12 stitches in colour C, 12 stitches in colour B, 12 stitches in colour A, 

    Work the pattern for the second side as instructions above.

     

    Handle

    The basic instructions for the handle are very simple – but you can choose to work them in whatever colour – or mix of colours you want.  Make them as long or short as you wish.

     

    Make 2

    Cast on 4 stitches

    Row 1: knit

    Row 2: Purl

    Repeat until handle measures about 27cm.

    Cast off.

     

    Or you could make an I cord

     

    TIP – If you knit both the handles at the same time you can be sure that they will be exactly the same length.  Just cast on from each end of the colour yarn you wish to use.

     

    To make up

    Sew in the yarn tails along the top columns in their correct colour blocks

    Sew the handles to the wrong side of the top ribbing, using the yarn tails - leaving the top rows of the bag to curl around itself.

    Join the side of the bag together, keeping the colour blocks matching.

     

    Lining

    Iron the fabric piece flat – fold in half and iron.

    Pin together and sew up both short sides 1cm in.  You can machine or hand sew with little running stitches.

    Turn over top 1cm.

     

    Lining the bag

    Turn the bag so that with the back of the work is facing outwards.

    Turn the lining so that the seams on the inside.

    Slip the fabric lining over the bag so that both the wrong sides are together and the inner of your bag will be neat.

    Pin the lining around the top of bag - just where the rib colour starts – and sew the lining top fold to the yarn using small over sewing stitches and cotton thread.

    Sew on your popper fastening

     

    Take a step further:-

    • You can easily make the bag wider by adding more colour panels
    • And you can make the bag deeper by continuing to work in the cable pattern block.
    • The handle edges will naturally curl towards each other – add a length of cord and over sew slightly to make firmer handles for a larger bag.
    • Experiment with any wild and wacky colour combination you feel like!
    • Make in one colour – or use up your scraps.
    • Add a zip to the top for a closed purse.

     

    This pattern is part of The Kitten and The Goat Monthly Virtual Knitting Circle.  Sign up to our email list on the website to get a newsletter with a free pattern and access to 2 videos every month.

    The Kitten and The Goat

    www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk

    Facebook – Instagram – Pinterest – search for The Kitten and The Goat

  3. easter basketYou will need:

    Chunky weight yarn

    5mm knitting needles

     

     

     

     

    Pattern:

    Cast on 8 stitches.

    Row 1: knit into the front - then the back of each stitch.  (16 stitches).

    Row 2: purl.

    Row 3: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 1, repeat from * to end. (24 stitches).

    Row 4: purl.

    Row 5: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 2, repeat from * to end. (32 stitches).

    Row 6: purl.

    Row 7: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 3, repeat from * to end. (40 stitches).

    Row 8: purl.

    Row 9: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 4, repeat from * to end. (48 stitches).

    Row10: purl.

    Row 11: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 5, repeat from * to end. (56 stitches)

    Row 12: purl.

    Row 13: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 6, repeat from * to end. (64 stitches)

    Row 14: purl.

    Row 15: *knit into the front - then the back of the stitch, knit 7, repeat from * to end. (72 stitches)

    Row 16: purl.

    Row 17: purl.

    Row 18: purl.

    Row 19: knit

    Rows 18 and 19 until you have reached your desired length.

    Work a picot edge – knit 2 stitches together, bring yarn forward – repeat all across row.

    Work 3 more plain rows.

    Cast off.

     

    Take a step further

    • Make the stripes pink or blue for a new baby hamper.
    • Add strips of moss stitch.
    • Make using 2 strands of dk together for a random look to use up your scraps.
    • Make with different base sizes.
    • Make at different heights for storage.
    • Add a couple of I cords for handles.
    • Add a wide knitted strip at a handle.

     

     

  4. zig zag Zigzag square

    Cast on 28 stitches.

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Work row 1: 3 more times

    Row 5: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 3, cable 3 right, - repeat x2, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 6: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 7: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 2, cable 3 right, purl 1 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 8: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 9: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 1, cable 3 right, purl 2 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 10: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 11: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * cable 3 right, purl 3 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 12: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 13: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * cable 3 left, purl 3 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 14: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 15: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 1, cable 3 left, purl 2 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 16: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 17: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 2, cable 3 left, purl 1 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 18: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 19: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 3, cable 3 left, - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 20: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 21: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 3, cable 3 right, - repeat x2, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 22: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 23: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 2, cable 3 right, purl 1 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 24: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 25: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * purl 1, cable 3 right, purl 2 - repeat x2 more, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 26: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 27: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, * cable 3 right, purl 3 - repeat x2 more, purl 3, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 28: work the stitches as they lie.

    Row 29: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Repeat last row 3 times more.

    Cast off.

     

    I use double knitting 100% acrylic yarn for all my knitting work.  If you are using pure wool, or a wool mix you will need more as the yarn is heavier.

    This pattern is part of The Kitten and The Goat Monthly Virtual Knitting Circle.  Sign up to our email list on the website to get a newsletter with a free pattern and access to 2 videos every month.

     

    The Kitten and The Goat

    www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk

    Facebook – Instagram – Pinterest – search for The Kitten and The Goat

  5. PXL_20250220_133030886

    You will need:

    5mm circular knitting needles – 60cm or longer

    DK yarn – I used James Brett Shhh

    Lace scarf / shawl

     

    To make

    Cast on 3 stitches.

    Row 1: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, Knit 2 stitches together. 3 stitches.

    Row 2: knit 2, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 4 stitches.

    Row 3: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit 1, knit 2 stitches together. 4 stitches.

    Row 4: knit 1, yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 5 stitches.

    Row 5: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 6: knit 1, yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 6 stitches.

    Row 7: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.  

    Row 8: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) two times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 7 stitches.

    Row 9: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 10: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) two times, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 8 stitches.

    Row 17: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 12: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) three times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 9 stitches.

    Row 13: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 14: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) three times, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 10 stitches.

    Row 15: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 16: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) four times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 11 stitches.

    Row 17: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 18: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) four times, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 12 stitches.

    Row 19: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 20: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) five times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 13 stitches.

    Row 21: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 22: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) five times, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 14 stitches.

    Row 23: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 24: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) six times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 15 stitches.

    Row 25: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

     

    Row 26: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) six times, knit 1, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 16 stitches.

    Row 27: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 

    Row 28: knit 1, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 17 stitches.

    Row 29: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 30: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch.  – yes, I know it’s weird the first time – but the row length grows!!!

    Rows 31–44: repeat rows 29–30 seven more times. 25 stitches.

    Row 45: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 46: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 

    Row 47: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 48: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 27 stitches.

    Row 49: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 50: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 28 stitches. 

    Rows 51–90: repeat rows 29–30 another 20 times. 48 stitches.

    Row 91: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 92: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 

    Row 93: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 94: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 

    Row 95: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. (50 stitches).

    Row 96: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 51 stitches.

    Row 97: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 98: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 

    Row 99: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Row 100: purl to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 stitches together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 

    Rows 101–136: repeat rows 29–30 another 18 times 71 stitches.

    Row 137: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together.

    Rows 138–143: repeat rows 46–47 three more times. 74 stitches.

    Row 144: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 75 stitches.

    Rows 145–150: repeat rows 45–46 three more times. 78 stitches.

    Rows 151–182: repeat rows 29–30 another 16 times. 94 stitches.

    Row 183: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

    Rows 184–191: repeat rows 46–47 four more times. 98 stitches.

    Row 192: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 99 stitches.

    Rows 193–200: repeat rows 45–46 four more times. 103 stitches.

    Rows 201–228: repeat rows 29–30 another 14 times. 117 stitches.

    Row 229: knit into the front - then the back of stitch, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

    Rows 230–239: repeat rows 46–47 five more times. 122 stitches.

    Row 240: knit to last 15 stitches, (yarn forward, knit 2 together) seven times, knit into the front - then the back of stitch. 123 stitches.

    Rows 241–252: repeat rows 45–46 six more times. 129 stitches.

    Rows 253–276: repeat rows 29–30 twelve more times. 141 stitches.

    Cast off loosely.

    Weave in ends.

     

    Take a step further

    • Work in chunky weight on 7mm or 8mm
    • Work the lace border in a different colour
    • Work the pattern stripe in a different colour
    • Keep repeating the pattern blocks until you have the length you wish – then just cast off

     

     

    This pattern is part of The Kitten and The Goat Monthly Virtual Knitting Circle.  Sign up to our email list on the website to get a newsletter with a free pattern and access to 2 videos every month.

     

    The Kitten and The Goat

    www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk

    Facebook – Instagram – Pinterest – search for The Kitten and The Goat

     

  6. rich

     

    Richelieu Rib

     

    Cast on 29 stitches.

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 2: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 3: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 4: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 5: foundation row: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, *purl 4, knit 1 – repeat to last 5 stitches, purl 2, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 6: purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 3 stitches, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 7: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 below *purl 4, knit 1 below – repeat to last 4 stitches, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1

    *** knit 1 below – insert right hand needle knit wise into the centre of the loop below the next working stitch – work through the stitch and slide off the needle – pull the loop slightly to enlarge the loop and help it sit better.

    Rows 6 and 7 form the pattern – repeat until you reach

    Row 29: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 30: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 31: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 32: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Cast off.

  7. heart super chunky

    Heart Coasters

     You will need:

    9mm knitting needles

    Super chunky yarns

     

     

    Starting at the top of one bump

    Cast on 5 stitches.

    Row 1: knit.

    Row 2: knit into the front – then the back of the first stitch, knit to end of row.  (6 stitches).

    Row 3: knit.

    Row 4: knit to the last stitch, knit into the front – then the back of the last stitch. (7 stitches).

    Row 5: knit.

    Row 6: knit into the front – then the back of the first stitch, knit to end of row.  (8 stitches).

    Knit 4 rows.  Break yarn.

     

    Push the work down the needle out of the way - cast on in front and make a matching bump.

     

    Join the 2 pieces by knitting across both of them.

     

    Knit 4 rows.

    Decrease row 1: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

    Decrease row 2: knit.

    Decrease row 3: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

    Decrease row 4: knit.

    Decrease row 5: knit 2 stitches together, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

    Decrease row 6: knit.

    Knit the last 2 stitches together.  Weave in tails.

    Take a step further

    • Use as an embellishment for a hat or a cushion.
    • Make 2 – blanket stitch round the outer edge – stuff a little.  Makes a cute worry / fiddle item.
    • Work in stocking stitch.
    • Work in chunky on 6mm for smaller hearts.
    • Group several on a cushion.
    • Make as hangers / bunting / ornaments.
  8. horizontal open work

    Cast on 28 stitches.

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Work row 1: 3 more times

     

    Row 5: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 6: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 7: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 8: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 9: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, *yarn round needle, purl 2 together – repeat to last 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 10: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 11: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 12: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 13: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 14: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 15: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 16: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, *yarn round needle, purl 2 together – repeat to last 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 17: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 18: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 19: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 20: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 21: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 22: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 23: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, *yarn round needle, purl 2 together – repeat to last 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 24: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 25: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 26: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 27: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 28: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

     

    Row 29: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Repeat last row 3 times more.

    Cast off.

  9. hatSize – approximately 16” head size – but there is a lot of give in them

    You will need

    6mm knitting needles

    Double knitting or chunky yarn

    Large blunt needle to sew up

    Pompom if you want one

    • you can use either 2 strands of double knitting together – or 1 strand of chunky – it works out the same

    Method

    Using 6mm needles – cast on 60 stitches.

    Work the bottom pattern in rib stitch as follows.

    Row 1: knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, repeat to end of row.

    Repeat row 1: 5 times more.  If you want a fold over edge – work 3 or 4” in rib.

    Row 7: knit across all stitches.

    Row 8: purl across all stitches.

    Continue these last 2 rows until you reach top shaping – you go longer if you want a looser, longer hat!

    Shape for top

    Row 29: *(knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 2) – repeat from * to end of row.  (50 stitches).

    Row 30: purl across all stitches.

    Row 31: *(knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2) – repeat from * to end of row.  (40 stitches).

    Row 32: purl across all stitches.

    Row 33: *(knit 2 together, knit 2) – repeat from * to end of row. (30 stitches).

    Row 34: purl across all stitches

    Row 35: *(knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2) – repeat from * to end of row. (20 stitches).

    Row 36: purl 2 together all across row. (10 stitches).

    Row 37: knit 2 together all across row. (5 stitches).

    thread the yarn through the remaining stitches, pull tight and secure.

    Making up - Sew the back seam together.  If you have added a turn back cuff you can turn if to where you want it and add a few stitches at the ¼ points of the circumference so that it stays turned back. 

    Take a step further:

    • Change the size by adding / reducing the number of stitches case on in blocks of 10.
    • Work stripes.
    • Work the cuff in a different colour.
    • Add motif patterns.
    • Add texture patterns / cables.
    • Work all in rib.

     

     

     

  10. The Square Collection – Reversable Star Pattern

     big star square

     This is part of our monthly Blanket Club.  Patterns are released every month on the website – then published in a booklet after a year. 

    • If you are using the double knitting weight of yarn, then use 2 strands together throughout.
    • If you are using the chunky weight of yarn, then use 1 strand throughout.
    • Remember to count all the rows as you work up the square. 

     Cast on 45 stitches

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 2: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 3: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 4: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 5: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 6: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 7: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

     

    Row 8: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 37, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 9: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 35, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 10: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 37, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 11: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 35, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 12: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, purl 2, knit 17, purl 2, knit 8, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 13: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 7, knit 2, purl 17, knit 2, purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 14: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 2, knit 15, purl 2, knit 9, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 15: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 9, knit 2, purl 13, knit 2, purl 9, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 16: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 10, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 17: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 9, knit 4, purl 9, knit 4, purl 9, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 18: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 10, purl 5, knit 7, purl 5, knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 19: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 10, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 20: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11, purl 6, knit 3, purl 6, knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 21: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 10, knit 7, purl 1, knit 7, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 22: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11, purl 15, knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 23: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 10, knit 15, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 24: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11, purl 15, knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 25: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 11, knit 13, purl 11, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 26: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 12, purl 13, knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 27: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 11, knit 13, purl 11, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 28: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 12, purl 13, knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 29: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 10, knit 15, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 30: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11, purl 15, knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 31: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 9, knit 17, purl 9, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 32: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 19, knit 9, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 33: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 7, knit 21, purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 34: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 7, purl 23, knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 35: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 5, knit 25, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 36: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5, purl 27, knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 37: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 29, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 38: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3, purl 31, knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 39: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 12, knit 11, purl 12, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 40: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 13, purl 11, knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 41: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 13, knit 9, purl 13, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 42: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 14, purl 9, knit 14, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 43: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 14, knit 7, purl 14, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 44: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 15, purl 7, knit 15, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 45: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 14, knit 7, purl 14, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 46: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16, purl 5, knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 47: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 15, knit 5, purl 15, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 48: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16, purl 5, knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 49: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 15, knit 5, purl 15, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 50: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17, purl 3, knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 51: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 16, knit 3, purl 16, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 52: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17, purl 3, knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 53: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 17, knit 1, purl 17, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 54: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 18, purl 1, knit 18, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 55: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 35, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    row 56: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 37, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

    Row 57: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 58: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 59: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 60: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 61: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

    Row 62: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.

    Row 63: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.

     Cast off, weave in ends and block.

    Work other squares with just the plain background and join together in alternate patterns.

     big star square (1)

  11. ankle warmerYou will need:

    4mm knitting needles

    DK yarn – I am using the James Brett Shhh yarn – it’s a lightweight brushed dk that goes a really long way and gives a really light and delicate effect.

    Large blunt needle to sew up

    The circumference of these is about 10” – depends on the yarn you use and how tightly you work.  If you want a smaller round – reduce stitches in counts of 7 – if you want larger add stitches in counts of 7.

     To make

    With 4mm knitting needles – working top down - cast on 60 stitches.

     Rib edge

    Row 1: knit 1, purl 1 – repeat to end of row.

    Repeat row and work about 1”.

     

    Work the lace pattern:

    Row 1: knit.  While you are working along the row – increase 3 stiches evenly spaced.  (63 stitches).

    Row 2: purl.

    Row 3: (knit 1, yarn over, bring yarn to the front to purl 1, purl 3 together, purl 1, without taking the yarn back, knit 1) repeat to end of row.

    Row 4: purl.

    Repeat these 4 rows and work about 5”.  You can go longer if you wish.

    Work a few rows of the knit 1 row – purl 1 row before starting the rib.

    Work the ruffle.

    Row 1: into every stitch work – knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit.  That means – knit into the stitch – but don’t slip it off the needle, bring the yarn around over the needle to create another stitch, knit into the stitch again – but don’t slip it off the needle, bring the yarn around over the needle to create another stitch, knit in to the stitch again, now slip it off the needle – you are creating 5 stitches out of the one stitch.  (300 stitches – but don’t bother to count then – it’s not super critical if it’s over or under!).

    Row 2: purl.

    Row 3: knit.

    Work about 2” of the purl / knit rows – or more if you like a deep frill.

    Cast off loosely.

    Sew up the back seam.

    Take a step further

    • Work the leg section as long as you wish.
    • Wear pulled up – or scrunched down.
    • Make the frill less full by working 3 stitches into each stitch – less yarn hungry.
    • Miss the frill off all together.
    • Make the rib and the frill in contrast colours.
    • You may find 5 into 1 is too bulky for your yarn – try 5 then 3 into one for a less dense effect – or just 3 into 1 for a less ruffle.
    • Exaggerate the edge of the frill be knitting into the front and then the back of every stitch – then cast off.
    • Make matching wrist warmers by reducing the stitches.

     

     

  12. 20240824_125249

     

     

    Grid Stitch Square

     

     

     

     

    Cast on 30 stitches.

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Work row 1: 3 more times

     

    Row 5: *knit 1, purl 1 – repeat to end of row.

    Row 6: work as the stitches lie.

    Row 7: knit.

    Row 8: knit.

    These 4 last 4 rows form the pattern – work 5 times more.

     

    Row 29: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Repeat last row 3 times more.

    Cast off.

  13. This pattern is part of the Knitting with Kitten Knitting Circle

    Knitted Eyeballs

    eyeballs

    You will need:

    4mm knitting needles

    DK yarn in black

    DK yarn in white

    DK yarn in colours

    Large blunt needle

     

     

     

    To make – large.

    With 4mm knitting needles and white – cast on 6 stitches.

    Row 1: purl.

    Row 2: knit into the front – then into the back of each stitch.  (12 stitches).

    Row 3: purl.

    Row 4: *knit into the front – then into the back, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (18 stitches).

    Row 5: purl.

    Row 6: *knit into the front – then into the back, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (27 stitches).

    Row 7: purl.

    Row 8: knit.

    Row 9: purl.

    Row 10: *knit into the front – then into the back, knit 2 – repeat from * to end of row.  (36 stitches).

    Row 11: purl.

    Row 12: knit.

    Row 13: purl.

    Row 14: *knit 2 together, knit 2 – repeat from * to end of row.  (27 stitches).

    Row 15: purl.

    Row 16: knit.

    Break yarn and change to a colour.

    Row 17: purl.

    Row 18: *knit 2 together, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (18 stitches).

    Row 19: purl.

    Row 20: *knit 2 together, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (12 stitches).

    Break yarn and change to black.

    Row 21: purl.

    Row 22: knit 2 together all across row.  (6 stitches).

    Break yarn – draw yarn through stitches and secure to finish.  Join the seam with the tails of the right colour – filling as you go.

     

    To make – small.

    With 4mm knitting needles and white – cast on 6 stitches.

    Row 1: purl.

    Row 2: knit into the front – then into the back of each stitch.  (12 stitches).

    Row 3: purl.

    Row 4: *knit into the front – then into the back, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (18 stitches).

    Row 5: purl.

    Row 6: *knit into the front – then into the back, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (27 stitches).

    Row 7: purl.

    Row 8: knit.

    Row 9: purl.

    Break yarn and change to a colour.

    Row 10: *knit 2 together, knit 2 – repeat from * to end of row.  (20 stitches).

    Row 11: purl.

    Row 12: *knit 2 together, knit 2 – repeat from * to end of row.  (15 stitches).

    Break yarn and change to black.

    Row 13: purl.

    Row 14: *knit 2 together, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.  (10 stitches).

    Row 15: purl 2 together all across row.

    Break yarn – draw yarn through stitches and secure to finish.  Join the seam with the tails of the right colour – filling as you go.

     

    Take a step further –

    • Add crochet tails at the back for sinews.
    • Use a red thread to create ‘veins’.
    • Use chunky and 6mm for a larger size.
    • Make a whole plate full as decoration.
    • Create loads – thread a string / ribbon through the middle and tie as a necklace.

     

     

    This pattern is part of The Kitten and The Goat Monthly Virtual Knitting Circle.  Sign up to our email list on the website to get a newsletter with a free pattern and access to 2 videos every month.

     

    The Kitten and The Goat

    9, New Shambles, Kendal, LA9 4TS

    www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk

    Facebook – Instagram – Pinterest – search for The Kitten and The Goat

     

  14. 20240824_134624

    Andalusian  stitch

     

     

     

    Cast on 30 stitches.

    Row 1: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Work row 1: 3 more times

    Row 5: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 6: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 7: knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit to last 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

    Row 8: *knit 1, purl 1 – repeat to end of row.

    These 4 last 4 rows form the pattern – work 5 times more.

     

    Row 29: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end.

    Repeat last row 3 times more.

    Cast off.

     

  15. You will need -

    Balls of cotton / acrylic (you will need more for 100% cotton)

    4mm knitting needles

    Fabric for lining – paper to make a pattern, and something to cut and sew with.

     

    Start at the top of the handle – work 2 sides the same.

    Cast on 13 stitches

    Row 1: knit 1, * purl 1, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.

    Row 2: knit 1, * knit 1, purl 1 – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2.

    Row 3: knit 1, * knit 1, purl 1 – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2.

    Row 4: knit 1, * purl 1, knit 1 – repeat from * to end of row.

    These 4 rows form the pattern. 

    Keep the pattern in this form all through the piece allowing for increasing stitches.

    Work about 60 rows for the handle – more if you want a shoulder bag.

    Increase row: work the first and the last stitches as a knit stitch. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row – by knitting into the front and then the back of the 2nd stitch.

    Repeat increase row 6 times - 25 stitches.

    Cast on 5 stitches at each end of the next row. 

    Work 1 straight row in the pattern.

    Cast on 5 stitches at each end of the next row. 

    Work 1 straight row in the pattern.

    Repeat the increase row if you want more width.

    Work the body of the bag as deep as you wish.  Work both sides before you cast off.

    Cast off both sides together at the bottom seam.  This gives you a stronger – neater finish.

    Use the completed bag as a guide to cut out a paper pattern

    Overlap the top handle edges slightly and stitch together.

    Adding a lining – cut the fabric using the pattern you made – adding ¼” seam allowance.

    – hem around the sides and join the handle – turn right side out – give it a good press – slip the lining inside the bag – turn the raw edges under and slip stitch to the outer.

     

  16. knitting with kitten - teddy pattern - no background 1 Ready Teddy Go

    You will need:

    1 pair of 4mm needles

    Double Knitting yarn

    Toy stuffing

    Scraps of yarn or embroidery thread for face

    Ribbon for bow

    Large blunt needle to sew up

     

    You will find helpful:

    A row counter

    Garter stitch used throughout (knit every row)
    Method: start at the legs

    With 4mm knitting needles, cast on 8 stitches.

    work 16 rows, knit all stitches across rows.
    Break off yarn, leave stitches on needle.

    Cast on 8 stitches and work 16 rows the same to form the other leg.


    Body – push the 2 legs next to each other on the same needle and knit across all stitches of both legs (16 stitches).

    Work 8 rows, knit all stitches across rows.


    Arms - Cast on 8 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows (32 stitches).
    Work 8 rows, knit all stitches across rows.


    Head - Cast off 8 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
    Now work 38 rows on these 16 stitches, knit all stitches across rows.


    Arms - Cast on 8 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
    Work 8 rows, knit all stitches across rows.


    Body - Cast off 8 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
    Work 8 rows, knit all stitches across rows.

     Legs - Using only the first 8 stitches, knit 16 rows, knit all stitches across rows.

    Then cast off these 8 stitches.
    Return to remaining 8 stitches and knit 16 rows, knit all stitches across rows. and then cast off.

    Making up.

    Fold knitted piece in half lengthways. The fold becomes the top of the head.
    Join seam around teddy, leave a small gap between the legs.


    mattress stitch


    Backstitch a diagonal line across corner of head to form ears and pull to make shape.
    Stuff body and slip stitch closed area left for stuffing.
    Embroider a face on teddy.
    Take a double thickness of yarn and thread around neck, going in every few stitches, (making sure there are no loops that little fingers can get into).
    Draw up yard tightly to form neck and secure ends. Tie a ribbon around neck to finish

    Take one step further –

    -       Add a scarf - With same needles and thickness of yarn, cast on 60 stitches.
    Knit 6 rows and then cast off. Tie round teddy’s neck and secure in place if being given to a small child

    -       Knit in stocking stitch – that is 1 row of knit – 1 row of purl

    -       Knit the various parts in different colours to look like clothes – start with a couple if lines in black for the shoes – body colour for the legs – colour for shorts – change colour for shirt (keeping ends of arms the same colour as the legs) – knit head in body colour – repeat on the other side

    -       Add a felt Santa for Christmas – or a princess crown

    -       Work in chunky yarn on 6mm needles for a bigger, thicker toy

    -       Work in super chunky on 8mm or 9mm for a large toy

     

     

    Original work produced by – copyright and rights owned by

    The Kitten and The Goat, 9 New Shambles, Kendal Cumbria

    www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk

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